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On January 15th 2007, I set off on a journey of a lifetime, to cruise down the Nile from Luxor to Aswan. As my husband was unable to accompany me, I took my 29year old daughter Jill who has been blind for 10years.
As I had booked very late, and had not done much research, I left our fate entirely in the hands of our travel agent Barbara Maddocks of Nile Cruises 4u. Flying out from Manchester to Luxor, we had a very comfortable flight lasting about 5 hours. We arrived just before sunset, taking in the glorious view of the Nile meandering through the desert, with a thick lush strip of fertile green on either side of its banks. We met our Egyptologist guide, Reda who welcomed us onto the coach and gave a brief description of proceeding for the rest of the evening.
Arriving at the boat, (it should be described as a Floating Hotel), we were asked to check in, go to our accommodation and wait for our luggage to arrive. It all took about fifteen minutes before our cases arrived outside our bedroom.
I was thrilled to see our beautiful room, television, fridge, air-conditioning, very comfy twin beds and floor to ceiling French windows giving us panoramic views of the Nile. The bathroom was marble and we had a full size bath with shower and hairdryer. The room was spacious and allowed us a dressing table, two chairs by the window and a table. The boat is only a few years old, very elegant and liveried in blue and white.
Dinner that first evening allowed us to meet the other guests, and is served in buffet style with a wide range to suit all tastes, including an Egyptian dish which was on offer every night. Breakfast was equally sumptuous, fresh breads, fruit, yoghurts, cold meats and cheeses or if preferred, a hot breakfast consisting of everything except bacon, which I expected in a Muslim country, but the sausages made up for that, delicious!!
Lunch consisted of yet another hot and cold feast. Dressing for breakfast and lunch is casual, but it would be advisable to take some evening wear for dinner. By that I do not mean black tie or ball gown but dressy trousers and tops or cocktail length dresses.
Most tours start early in the morning to avoid the heat of the day, giving guests all afternoon to relax on the sundeck. Reda our guide advised me that one or two tours would probably not suit Jill as the terrain would be difficult for her. One such temple involved a bit of a climb, and therefore I was confident that we would not be going anywhere that would prove difficult for Jill or me. We opted to sunbathe on the deck, while being served drinks and coffee from the ever smiling friendly staff, for whom nothing was too much trouble.
The rooms were thoroughly cleaned by the time breakfast was over with fresh sheets every day. In the evening they were cleaned again and the beds turned down. The efficiency of the Hotel Manager Hassan, was never ceasing and always with a smile.
It was wonderful to lie in bed with the window open at night and watch the Nile drift by, to the drone of prayers from the Hamams and followers, from the many mosques along its banks, which gave a haunting edge to the silhouette of palm trees and mud-brick villages against the moonlit skyline. Stars were in abundance and I really felt as though I was somewhere quite magical and ancient.
In Aswan, Jill and myself opted out of the tour as it was going to be a little difficult. I decided to take her for afternoon tea to the famous Cataract Hotel which overlooks the Agha Khans tomb. It is the place that inspired Agatha Christie to write 'Murder on the Nile' it was also filmed there, and many famous people have stayed at this luxurious watering hole, including Sir Winston Churchill, Princess Diana and The King of Jordan and so on. Now it had me and Jill!!
If you are not a guest you pay οΎ£8 pounds sterling on admission, but that is including afternoon tea. We then spent some time exploring the gardens. Reda, our Guide, had organised a taxi to take us there and back at a set price, and the driver was to pick us up on our return journey at 3.30pm. He was bang on time, and we paid him when we returned to the boat
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The 'Galabaya' night was a night to remember. During that day in Edfu, several long wooden boats with about four men in each, stockpiled with goods, started throwing plastic bags with Galabayas inside, up onto the deck. You had to choose one, and then bargain for it by shouting back to them. When a price is agreed, you put the money into one of the dress bags you don't want and throw it back to them. This continued for about half an hour or so and was such good fun.
Afternoon tea is served on the sun-deck most days at 4pm with biscuits. The sun-deck has a large canopied section with coffee bar, tables and chairs, and plenty of comfy sun-beds to lounge around. We had by this time met up with a group of people with whom we spent evenings after dinner with in the bar, I think we laughed solidly for the whole week and have promised all to meet up and do this again. Whether this will happen I would love to think so, but Jill and myself certainly will.
We went on the Valley of the Kings Tour and The Valley of the Queens with a running commentary on the history from Reda. The Tombs and Hieroglyphics rendered me speechless, the beauty and one-time opulence, the paintings and carvings, just to feel history is something you cannot achieve from a book, and will never forget. We also went on to a porcelain factory where we watched Egyptian artisans at work.
On our last morning we went on a camel ride. A small boat next to the Emilio, took us up river about 40 minutes away. Its advisable to take a light jacket or cardigan for early morning trips as the temperature doesn't rise until about 11am in January. I was a little apprehensive, but I needn't have been.
The camels were very young and not too high in stature. Every-one had a guide and two men guarded us throughout on Arabian horses. We trekked through several villages, children waving and singing us songs. At the end, we were taken to the owners house and given a very welcome glass of Egyptian tea with a chunk of home made bread.
My summary of this holiday is simple. Absolutely Fabulous!!
The Egyptian people are friendly helpful, always smiling and so willing to make sure that you are enjoying yourself. It is an extremely poor and underdeveloped country and tourism is a lifeline. The Egyptians are a proud people, most speaking a little English and I must point out, that if you can learn one or two Egyptian phrases they are absolutely charmed with pleasure.
Security is First Class on the boat and at the Airport. Anyone infirm or disabled is shown priority for checking in luggage. No-one had to lift a case or a bag at any time, their service is immaculate
If a holiday in Dubai or the Costa del Sol is what you expect, then this is not the holiday for you, there are no Disney style walkways coke or burgers, smart shopping malls or designer outlets. This holiday is for culture vultures, whether you want to relax and watch History drift by in the comfort of 5* surroundings and service, or step on shore to feel the History for yourself.
The Domina Prestige 'Emilio' will not disappoint you.
One tip is to take with you hand wipes or 'Clear and Dry' for your bag. Egyptian notes can be quite grubby and its not always easy to wash your hands when on a tour.
It was sunset as we took off from the runway, the skyline was a blend of red and ochre merging into a deep blue, once again we could see the Nile meandering, the moon sinking behind the sands, we had captured some of the essence and magic of the Nile, but not nearly enough.
I am not usually a creature of habit, but this is one holiday, one country and one Floating Hotel, The Domina Emilio Prestige, that will draw me back time and time again.
Karen and Jo Daley
January 2007
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